Long Commutes in the Rain

Most transportation cyclists eventually get comfortable with riding in the rain, and for me this was never particularly a problem. In the beginning, my commutes through the city were short and I mainly remember struggling with poor visibility and chaotic traffic, before getting used to it all. But as my travel radius increased, so did my exposure to rain. Some things began to matter that did not matter as much before, and I gradually made adjustments. 

As far as the bike, the big thing for me was waterproofing. I carry a laptop always when cycling for transportation, a DSLR camera much of the time, and also hand-written documents. These items absolutely cannot get wet. While there is now a wealth of attractive new bicycle bags on the market, many of them are not designed to resist water beyond a short ride. For long commutes, I suggest using a touring-grade bag or one that is specifically described as waterproof. The Carradice I've been using on my Brompton for the past 5 months has been pretty good so far (for as long as 50 miles in continuous rain in Ireland - with both my laptop and camera inside), as was the Po Campo pannier I used on my full-sized bikes before that. Ortlieb bags are probably an even safer bet. Just in case, I keep a plastic bag inside for emergencies, and I always store water-sensitive items in internal compartments.

An issue for those who use leather saddles, is that these can get soggy (and, consequently, deformed) after long rides in the rain. A good saddle cover helps, and the stock one from from Brooks shown here is actually not the best example. Normally I use a thick gray one from Rivendell that fits tightly all around the saddle. It is deep, too, which protects the underside of the saddle as well. I am sure there are others that do a good job. Alternatively, there are specially treated leather saddles - such as Selle Anatomica - that claim to be waterproof. 

Finally, long exposure to rain might call for additional bike maintenance. On a bicycle without a chaincase, lubing the chain is probably a good idea. And even if you're not into cleaning your bike, the debris that gathers around the brake calipers and derailleur is worth wiping off to keep everything functioning smoothly. The need for this kind of maintenance after long rides in a downpour certainly makes a good argument for internally geared hubs, enclosed hub brakes and a full chaincase. However, bikes with those features may not be ideal for hilly long distance commutes.

As far as the cyclist, clothing choices get trickier - especially if you want to ride in regular clothes and don't have the opportunity to change upon arrival. A truly waterproof outer layer is essential. But equally important is breathability, since you are exerting yourself more than you would on a shorter ride. When I started riding longer distances I discovered that my usual raincoat was neither entirely waterproof, nor very breathable. Eventually I found one that worked well - made of light, technical fabric with lots of vents and a removable hood. Rain capes may be another option, with some breathable, cinchable ones from Iva Jean and Cleverhoods recently introduced. Just as crucial as outerwear is waterproof footwear: Shoes that are fine on short rides can get soggy after 10+ miles pedaling in the rain, and you probably don't want to sit around with wet feet all day. 

Of course, all the general tips for riding in the rain still apply: Lights, fenders, extra caution. On an upright bike, I don't feel like the rain is hitting me in the face as hard as it does on a roadbike, which makes things more pleasant. Once outside the city, I generally find it fairly peaceful and low-stress. Mixing ideas from transportation cycling and touring has been helpful for me and that's what I would suggest to others with long rainy commutes. Find a setup that works for you, and enjoy not being stuck in suburban rain-day traffic!

Le Petite Bateau

I couldn't resist this pretty and 'tasty' inspiration from "Carnets Parisiens". There are some amazingly talented people out there. Artists, photographers, graphic designers, stylists, decorates who constantly inspire me. Although my kids are way too old and too 'cool' for this kind of thing nowadays - I am not! I love the cute idea, gorgeous styling, soft ocean colours and beautiful photography. The world of blogging brings such gorgeousness right to our door step. Enjoy! 

Melissah xox

{ images: Carnets parisiens }

Check out my other blogs Scrapbook and Country Style Chic

North Wind, Meet Dirt Roads: the Rawland Nordavinden 650B

The Nordavinden is a newly released bicycle model from the small West-Coast company Rawland Cycles. Earlier this year I featured a friend's Rawland rSogn, which I could not ride because it was too big. At the time Rawland did not make a bike in my size, but they informed me that one would be coming out later in the year. We talked about a test ride, and as luck would have it, a demo bike was ready just before D2R2. I had it in my possession for a nice long weekend - most of it spent riding local and not so local dirt roads. 

Norwegian for "the north wind," the Nordavinden was designed as a lighter, sportier frameset than its more rugged predecessors: a zippy bike with low trail geometry that accepts fat tires. Full geometry and tubing specs are available here. Like all Rawland models, the Nordavinden is designed in California and handbuilt in Taiwan. 

The larger sizes are built for 700C and will fit a tire up to 35mm. The small size is built for 650B and will fit a tire up to 42mm (pictured here with Grand Bois Hetres). 

The frame is designed for sidepull or centerpull brakes. The demo bike came fitted with Rivendell's (discontinued) Silver big-mouth sidepulls. 

The dramatic curvature of the fork is immediately noticeable - prompting lots of low trail questions from those who saw the bike whilst in my possession. The trail is 30mm, with 650Bx42mm tires. 

Unlike its predecessor rSogn's double plated crown, the Nordavinden's fork crown is the more minimal Pacenti Artisan II, with lighter fork blades. 

The "ice blue" paint is a light, shimmery sky-blue. I tried to take some pictures that eliminated the shimmer and showed the true colour underneath. In person, the shimmer makes the blue look lighter. Compared to the (very similar) colour of the rSogn, the Nordavinden is cooler and a bit more saturated. 

Looking at the Nordavinden next to the rSogn (front), they are similar at first glance, but less so upon closer inspection. The Nordavinden has an almost level top tube (1.5° slope), compared to the rSogn's more prominent slope. The Norvavinden's appearance is sleeker and more roadish - with fewer braze-ons, narrower tire clearances, lower bottom bracket, shorter chainstays. 

Still, the Nordavinden is sufficiently versatile, with eyelets for fenders and braze-ons for a front rack (on the fork blades; optimised for Rivendell's Nitto Mark's rack).

The frame itself is welded cro-moly steel, with some decorative flourishes.

A Rawland chain-slap protector is included with the frame set,

As well as a Rawland seat collar.

The size Small is described as a 54cm frame, measured by its top tube. My ideal frame size for a road fit would have a 53cm top tube, but the small Nordavinden worked nicely with a slightly shorter stem.

Rawland advertises no toe overlap in any of their frame sizes. This held true for me (in size 38 clipless shoes), with room for a fender.

The demo model was built up with Velocity Synergy rims, White Industries hubs, a SRAM Apex drivetrain, 

Chris King headset, Soma threadless stem and handlebars, Tektro short reach brake levers and bar-end shifters. The build was not done for me specifically, but I did have a say in stem length and handlebar width, to ensure the bike would fit me. Were this my own bicycle, I would do some things differently for sure. But sometimes it can be interesting to use unfamiliar components.

For shifters, I had a choice between SRAM brifters and bar-ends, and opted for the latter. Prior to this I had not used bar-end shifters in over a year, and it took me a bit to free my brain from Campagnolo ergo mode. By the end, the SRAM bar-ends grew on me, though I still prefer Campagnolo ergos on my own bike.

I used my own pedals and saddle, and installed two bottle cages. The bike did not come equipped for carrying a front load, as it was optimised to do, so I used a saddlebag when I needed to carry a camera and other items. The bike - as shown here, but without bag and water bottles - weighed just over 24lb. 

I rode the Rawland Nordavinden for a total of 150 miles over the course of 4 days. First was a 30 mile shake-down ride, which included 12 miles of local dirt roads. The following day, I rode a 50 mile route at the D2R2, over half of which was dirt. The day after, I did a 40 mile local ride that included a paved road, a dirt road, and a rather technical dirt trail. And after that, I did a final 30 mile ride on paved roads - including a couple of hill climbs -  before returning the bike. 

What I noticed about the Rawland immediately, was that my sense of balance was different on it than on other roadbikes I've ridden recently. I found tight cornering easier than it typically is for me, and I found it surprisingly easy to change my position on the bike without disturbing its balance - allowing me the freedom of activities I usually have trouble with, such as drinking from the water bottle while riding. I remember similar handling when riding the Royal H. Randonneur last summer, but this time I think I was able to appreciate it more - particularly on unpaved terrain. At the D2R2, I was able to descend on loose dirt and gravel faster than I was comfortable doing previously, and to drink all the water I wanted without having to stop. It certainly added to my enjoyment of the day. The following morning, I rode unceremoniously on a somewhat challenging local dirt trail that I've never been willing to ride before. 

As far as speed, the Rawland is plenty fast and accelerates with no hesitation. There is a snappy, responsive, roadish feel to it. On pavement it is not quite as fast as my Seven roadbike, and it does not climb quite as effortlessly. But as soon as the pavement ends, the dynamic changes. It's as if the two bikes were made to be friends and supplement each other. The Rawland glides over dirt and gravel, seemingly preferring them to pavement. In part, of course, it is the wide tires - which don't bounce me around the way narrow road tires do. But it's also the handling - again, that peculiar flavour of maneuverability that comes with low trail - that makes it easy for me to pick a line through rutted out areas and to corner on loose sections without reducing speed. On a bike with standard front end handling, I feel less confident riding on winding, unpaved roads and trails - especially descending. This preference might be particular to me, I don't know. But I found the Rawland's handling exceptionally agreeable for riding on dirt. 

Notably, carrying weight in the rear was not a problem despite the bike's low trail design. It did not feel much different than riding without a saddlebag, except on steep climbs (with a full saddlebag, the front end "wandered" a bit). I do not know what the bike feels like to ride with a handlebar bag, but I can only imagine that not worse, considering that it's designed for one. I should also point out that I do not know what the bike feels like to ride long distances; my longest single ride on it was only 50 miles. With its front rack braze-ons, a bike like this just begs to be taken on a long, self-supported ride, and I hope to soon read some reviews from owners who've done that.

To think of criticisms is not an easy task here. I suppose I would like the bike even better if it were lighter, though I recognise the weight is pretty good for a bike of its kind. Another thing I can say is that I am fairly spoiled at this point as far as ride quality, and from that perspective the Rawland is not the cushiest bike I've ever ridden. It isn't a harsh ride by any means, but I feel that much of the cush is due to the fat tires - and that with narrower ones I would feel the bumpy roads more. Finally, as I've mentioned already, on pavement the Rawland is not as fast as my Seven - but then I don't think it makes sense to pit them against each other; they are not meant for the same kind of riding. I would not mind owning a bike like the Rawland to supplement my skinny tire roadbike. 

While showing off the demo bike, more than a couple of times I was asked why only the smallest Nordavinden size is offered in 650B. I must say I wonder as well, as it is precisely the combination of the wide 42mm Grand Bois Hetre tires and the handling that draws me to the bike. There is demand out there for lightweight, sporty low trail 650B bikes without having to spend a fortune on custom work. The Rawland Nordavinden retails at $725 for the frameset (available from Rawland Cycles directly). While I cannot vouch for the other sizes, I suspect the 650B Nordavinden is a bike that many would appreciate for road-to-trail riding. 

Many thanks to Rawland Cycles for loaning out the demo bike, and thanks to the Ride Studio Cafe for putting it together.

More pictures here.

Naturally Textured - Get The Look

Re-create This Look

Casual weekend outfit

For a relaxed, casual beachy look ~

take your cue from natural, reclaimed and salvaged materials.

Layer up textures and use lots of earthy materials ~

think cane chairs and rattan ottomans,

straw baskets and shell pendants,

linen cushions and Moroccan leather poufs.

Lots of organic elements combined will give you

a carefree, natural looking beach house

that's inviting and unpretentious.

 ~:~

The same goes for putting a casual weekend outfit together ~

cotton, silk and linen are all beautifully natural fibres to wear.

Melissah xox

Images via 1, 2, 3-4, 4 Mood Board by Coastal Style, Fashion story by Coastal Style

Check out Coastal Style on tumblr and Pinterest

Raleigh Sports Restoration Part 2 Wet Sanding / Also some Tool and Product Reviews

Hello and Welcome. Today "Sunday" I did some repair/maintenance work on a bike that belongs to the grandson of a friend of mine. Then went to look at flooring with my wife and partner of almost 30 years. I finally unloaded the freebie Sprint that was donated to the cause by my brother in law Frank that has been in the trunk of my old Taurus for 5 days. (the bike not Frank). But Friday and Saturday afternoon I spent wet sanding the Raleigh Sports. And I hope to spend at least part of tomorrow working n it as well.

Above: Friday afternoon went pretty well, I finished sanding all the main tubes and the left side chain and seat stays. For the initial sanding I have been using an automotive grade 180 grit wet sandpaper. Before spraying primer I will go over it quickly with a finer grit paper, probably around 220 grit.

Above: I thought I would try something different, so I purchased this 3M Finish Sanding Wheel for my high speed 8 amp DeWalt drill. It did not work well on the frame at all, it felt too hard and wanted to bounce. Also I did not seem to be getting much done with it at all. I am sure it "probably" works fine for other applications, just not this one. I`m sure I will find some practical use for it in the future.

Above: Saturday afternoon I finished wet sanding everything except the head tube. I have decided to remove the badge this time. Today I looked for a beveled metal file at the Depot but they did not have anything in stock. Tomorrow I will check at Peter's True Value out on M59 west of here. I plan on filing off the rivets from inside the head tube as Darrell from Bent Wrench Restorations suggested.

Above: By the way... Congratulations to Darrell who took home a trophy for "Best Middleweight" at the "Village Cycle Sport Show and Swap" for his beautiful Flightliner. Well done!! This is the same Darrell who donated the beautiful decals for the Rusty Raleigh restoration. Sometimes good things do happen to good people!

Above: Today (Monday) while picking up a new beveled file and some hack saw blades at Peter's True Value, I also picked up 2 size D batteries. And as you can see above the Delta "Buddy" Flashlight Lantern is working!! Not too bad for a 1919 model. I plan to use this light as a prop while photographing my 1964 Raleigh Sports.

Above: Today I removed the head badge, and was able to do so without destroying it. On the advice of Darrell from Bent wrench Restorations I filed down the rivets from inside the head tube. For this I used a beveled or curved file.

Above: My new beveled metal file. Being the head tube is exactly what it sounds like "a tube" using a beveled file will make it much easier to file down the rivets from the inside. This hopefully will allow me to simply pry off the head badge when finished.

Above: Here I am filing down the rivets. Actually pretending to, as I am right handed and am holding my Fuji Fine Pix Camera in my right hand. But you get the general idea. Once I was sure I had filed the rivets down flush it was time to pry off the badge.

Above: First I slid in a feeler gauge to separate the badge from the tube next to one of the rivets. Then a thicker one to make room for my micro pry bar.

Above: This mini pry bar was a freebie. It was part of a small promotional mini tool kit that was given to my wife at work many years ago. I keep it in with my bicycle tools and use it fairly regularly. Once I had separated the head badge from the the paint I was able to pry each of the rivets loose easily using this little tool. I did this by placing the mini pry bar behind the badge and as close to the rivets as possible. I often use the mini pry bar to get under old rubber or plastic rim strips for removal.

Above: Here is a little peek into the past to see the glossy black finish which once complimented this classic style frame. This answers a question I had as to whether or not this bike ever had a glossy finish. I thought it may have had a more semi gloss or satin finish.

Above: Here I am ready to start wet sanding the head tube. By wet sanding the paper goes a lot farther than using it dry. Dry sanding tends to fill the paper with paint rendering it pretty much useless. By rinsing the paper often it goes a lot farther. But the main reason I like wet sanding is the absence of dust.

Above: Here I have finished sanding the head tube but do I need to touch up the edges of the lugs.

Above: I have found that for this a low speed 18 volt rechargeable drill works better. The fine brass wire wheel brush (safety glasses) is just to hard on the metal at high speeds. The low speed drill mimics hand brushing. The wheel brush is much easier and faster even on the slower drill. I usually position a fan to one side to blow the dust away as I work.

Above: Now that is what I am talking about!

Above: When the frame is finished I like to hang it up high where nothing bad can happen to it. Now I need to get the fork ready for primer.

Above: Here is the dramatic difference that a good sanding will make. The metal on this frame is actually in much better shape than the metal on the Rusty Raleigh. Even after sanding I could still see the negative effects of having been of left out in the weather for an extended time had on the Sprite. Even though this bike is considerably older the metal is in excellent condition. I guess the message here is obvious.

Above: The thimble like inserts on the upper fork blade look like new. I wonder if they have been replaced at some point? That is all for today. I will pick this up tomorrow if I can. I do need to mow the front and back and side lawn tomorrow. We shall see.

Above: The Trek Mountain Lion I purchased for $7.50 today. (Wednesday) I took Tuesday off "after working in the yard all day" I was just too tired to do any bicycle work. But today I fixed-up this Trek with stuff I had laying around the shop. I did quite a bit of rust removal on the rims and cleaned up the spokes and hubs as well. I installed new Avenir pedals that I had purchased a while back and never used. The saddle is the one that came here on the slow boat from China. The ODI Grips have been on a couple of bikes, the last being the red fixed gear cruiser. The chain-guard is one that was hanging on the wall, off a salvage bike I assume. The bike was also filthy and both tires were flat. I think now I could get 50.00 for it without too much trouble.

Above: After using two of the original chain guard mounts (the rear and farthest forward mount) the guard was flopping around. This guard was not made for the push in rubber mount pins. So I made up a mounting bracket using one of the original collars and a left over bracket I had in my collection mounting bracket parts. It worked out real well as the guard is no firmly in place with lots of clearance. I drilled a small hole in the front of the guard so the bracket mount can be easily accessed with a screwdriver. The guard is not the sharpest looking I have seen, but it gets the job done.

Above: Here it is Sunday again and all I have managed to do "bike wise" is clean-up this little Trek I fixed up. I had some home and family things to take care of. The weather here has turned tropical again. I just do not have the right DNA for hot weather I guess. But it is supposed to cool down somewhat Monday. So I should be back in the shop finishing the fork and I should be getting the frame and fork sprayed. (primer)

Above: Paul a new but regular reader of the blogs face book page (and hopefully the blog as well) asked about cleaning paint. So for those of you who do not do the "face book thing" here is the secret. Meguiar's Paint Cleaner which is part of the Meguiar's 3 Step treatment. Or if you want to simplify, there is also a "Meguiar's Paint Cleaner/Polish" you can purchase any of these at most good Auto parts stores.

Above: My tire new pump my wife gifted me for my birthday back in May. The air psi gauge dial is mounted up higher. I was having trouble reading the old one, especially in the shop. I highly recommend this Topeak Joe Blow Sprint air pump. Not only is the gauge easier to read, it also has a flick-lock to secure the handle and a peg and clip to secure the hose. My son did the research and said this appeared to have the best reviews for a pump in this price range. You can find this pump on Amazon.com and a rebuild kit for it as well. I traded Laura (who owns two of my bikes as does her partner) my old Blackburn air pump for a sweet mountain bike rear rack.

Above: While I am recommending tools, I would like to recommend all four of the tools you see above. The Two Park chain tools are both from Park Tool. The larger of the two chain tools is only for larger chains 1/2 x 1/8 and larger. And the smaller on is for the smaller 1/2 x 3/32 chains. Do not let the size fool you, the smaller chain tool is very well made and has very smooth threading. The 3 Way Allen key wrench is also made by Park and has the three most commonly used sizes 4, 5 & 6 for brakes and derailleurs. The 3 Way Socket wrench has the three most commonly used sizes for brakes and derailleurs 8, 9 & 10 and this one is made by Avenir. I am sure you can find either of these two tools offered by both manufacturers. Both are real time savers and easy to bring along if needed.

Above: I have had these Gear Wrench sets SAE and Metric for a while now. I would like to report back that I have not broke one yet. And I have since filled out my metric set. I am only lacking the 11mm to complete my metric set. (7/16 works fine) They are faster than a conventional wrench, but you still have that option on the open-end side of the wrench. I purchased the original sets and additional wrenches at Peter`s True Value Hardware in Highland on M59 west of town on the south side.

Above: Well it can not be all good news. My "Dremel Like" = not a real "Dremel" has shorted out. For a while I could manipulate the cord and get a connection. Not any longer, I suspect the problem was caused by the case. It is small and the cord has to be rolled up small to fit in the space allowed in the case. So there you have it, If you buy this off brand rotary tool you might want to toss the case in the wheelie bin. Or you could just buy a Genuine Dremel Rotary tool which will cost a little more. But you can see what has happened to my cheaper one. I will try to replace the cord and get back to you.

Above: Anyone know who won this thing? Until Next Time, Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE Cheers, Hugh

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