Some of the Tools I use Restoring and Recycling Bicycles

Hello and Welcome,
A while ago Ryan suggested I do a post about the tools I use in my shop. Great idea! I love my tools almost as much as I love my bikes. I think a good place to start would be with my main tool box.

Above: If you squeeze the grips or if it cuts, I keep it in this drawer. (A&B) Large and Small Robo Grip channel locks (C) Needle Nose Pliers (D) Pliers (E) Pliers folding Multi tool (F) Bull Nose Nipper Cutter (G) Park Tool Professional Cable and Housing Cutters (H) Stanley Quick Slide III sports knife (I )Diagonal plier cutters (J) Vintage Imperial folding Knife (K) Swiss Army Knife (L) Large Scissors (M) Small Scissors

Above: (A) SAE Gear Wrenches (B) Metric Gear wrenches (C) Small Allen Wrenches(D) Metric Allen Wrench Set (E) SAE Allen Wrench Set (F) Small SAE and Metric Wrenches (G) Various Small Wrenches (H) Extra Metric Wrenches Popular Sizes. I would highly recommend the Gear wrenches. They are a real time saver. And quite often they will fit where a ratchet/socket will not.

Above:(A) Slotted Head Screwdriver set (B) Phillips Head Screwdriver set (C) A new addition to my tool box! T Handle Hex Wrenches (D) Pocket Screw Driver (E) Phillips Head attachment for 18 Volt Electric Drill/Driver

Above: (A) Mini Frame Pump (B) Teflon Tape (C) Tubing Cutter (small) (D)Under Seat Bag tube repair Kit (E) Bicycle Tire levers (F) Free Wheel removal tools (G)1,2&3 Bicycle Crank puller tool (H) 3/8 & 1/4 Mini Ratchet (I) 3/8 ratchet extension(J) 14mm socket (remove crank retainer-nut or bolt) (K) Schrader Valve Tool (L) Bicycle Chain Tool (M) Spoke wrenches (N) Cone Wrenches (O)Sealed Bottom Bracket Cartridge removal tool (Shimano) (P) Allen Key sockets (Q) Chain Whip (R) Bicycle Air Pressure Gage (S) Spanner (T) Lock Ring Wrench (U) Metric Rule (V) Caliper Type Measuring Tool (metric) (W) Mini prying tool (for rim strip removal)

Above: (A B C) 3/8, 1/4 & 1/2 Inch Sockets (D) Allen Key Sockets (E) 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet (F) 1/4 Inch Drive Ratchet (G) 1/4 - 3/8 Mini Ratchet (H) 14mm Socket (crank nut or bolt) (I) 3/8 Swivel Attachment (J) 1/4 Inch Extension (K) 3/8 Inch Extension (I have several more sockets put away)Most of my Craftsman sockets and ratchets etc. came in a set like the Craftsman 154 pc. Mechanics Tool Set

Above: (A) Wheel Truing Stand (B) Craftsman Bench Grinder. I use both of these a lot. A Truing Stand is an absolute must for getting wheels as true as possible.

Above: Shop Vise (To the right) A File. I have other files as well. A vise is another absolute must for any shop. And a set of files as well.

Above: 18 Volt Rechargeable Drill / Driver (Also) Fine Brass Wheel-Brush Attachment. This is one of the most important tools I own. Especially with the "fine" brass wheel-brush. I have saved countless parts and components with this tool. If your going into restoring old bikes, this should be the first tool you buy.

Above: Small Campbell Hausfeld shop Air compressor. Not a necessity, just faster. I could probably live without this, but I don't want too!

Above: Small Makita Angle Grinder. I don`t use it a lot. But when I do it`s a real work saver.

Above: (A) Adjustable Wrench Often Called a Crescent Wench (Crescent is actually a brand name) (B) Large Crescent Wrench (C) Ball Pein Hammer (There are three was to spell it, So hold the comments please) (D) Vise Grips locking pliers (also a brand name)
(E) Stupid "As seen on TV" Gadget wrench (I also have one of those stupid battery powered crescent wrenches..lol) Make me an offer!

Above: "Dremel Type" Rotary Tool And Accessory Kit. Another tool I don`t use often. But it really saved my A$$ on the single to three piece crank conversion.
It paid for itself that day.

Above: High Speed Dewalt 8 amp Electric Drill. I use this for more demanding drilling. Like drilling through steel. Sometimes you just need more speed and power. This was a gift from my wife. I asked for a cheaper one. But she found this one on sale. She must actually listen to me sometimes when I talk about quality tools. And the Dewalt is just that, a quality tool.

Above: Heat Gun used for removing decals and stickers. Can also be used to remove some types of paint. No more borrowing the wife's hair dryer gun. This was very affordable, less than 15.00 if I remember right.

Above: My collection of touch-up paint. I often use nail polish because it comes in almost every shade of almost every color. The worst part is actually purchasing it. My wife has a better eye for matching color than I do. So I often have her go purchase it for me.

Above: (A) 3M Trim and Detail Tape (look for this tape in the paint section) (B) White Lightning Brush and Scraper (for cleaning free-wheel units) (C) J.B. WELD Stick (8th wonder of the world) (D) Medical Gloves (for working with chemicals) (E) Safety Glasses (eye protection) (F) White Lightning Chain Cleaner (G) White Lightning Clean Streak (parts cleaner)

Above: Storage Bins and Tubs for Organizing Spare and Salvaged Parts. I am finally getting the shop organized this year. And I have been getting rid of the last of my masonry stuff.

Above: A repair stand is an absolute must. As I work on steel bikes I have no problem mounting a bike on the stand in this manner. I do occasionally clamp onto the seat tube. This Feedback Bicycle Work Stand is my favorite. Some of you Rockers may recognize the name. Feedback manufactured stands for the music industry "hence the name". This one breaks down easily, which makes it nice for travel or just moving inside during the winter. If you are going to rebuild or restore bikes, you are really going have to get or make a repair stand for yourself.

Above: My parts cleaning pot. Total investment including brush about 20.00 . I have found that spraying, then brushing the parts and respraying really speeds up the process. And conserves the expensive parts cleaner as well. My parts cleaner of choice White Lightning "Clean Streak". You should wear gloves and safety glasses when working with any chemical parts cleaner. And a heavy duty shop apron is always a good idea as well. Some kind of parts de greasing system is also an absolute must. And I use this almost everyday when I am busy.

Above: Another option for parts cleaning is a can of carburetor cleaner with a basket.(see arrow) This is very strong stuff and should be used carefully following all directions and cautions carefully. And you probably don`t want to put any plastic parts in there. But check the directions carefully. But for really old and dirty bearing cartridges and races and cups this stuff works great. I don`t recommend this to anyone who is inexperienced. This carburetor cleaner "in my opinion" can be dangerous stuff. READ ALL CAUTIONS

Above: This Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish is so important to what I do that I consider it one of my most important tools. I don`t let myself run out of this stuff ever! I have never heard from anyone who did not think this stuff was fantastic. I first heard about and started using Mothers back in my motorcycle days. For me, An absolute must have.

Above: By far the most important tool I have found yet, my P.C. I would be lost without it. What an amazing tool! Every time I would run across a problem the answer was always a few clicks away. The amount of information we have at our fingertips is mind-blowing.

Above: Coming Soon! Bottom bracket conversion, Unbelievably Simple! Until next time, Please RIDE SAFE and remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!
Cheers,Hugh

P.S. I have since thought of other tools I should have included. But that could go on forever. So this post will have to do for now.

Wool/Poly Blends for Cycling?

While merino wool has become a popular fabric choice for bicycle clothing, it seems that many manufacturers choose to use wool/polyester blends instead of pure merino, believing that the right combination can deliver the best results. Rapha and Road Holland use a fabric called SportWool. Shutt Velo Rapide uses MerinoPerform. Swobo refers to their blend as Merino 753. I am sure there are other proprietary names, but judging by the descriptions of these fabrics the idea is essentially the same: The blend is formulated to have wool fibers on the inside and polyester fibers on the outside, which the manufacturers believe delivers ideal performance properties.

Observing the way these blends have been marketed over the past couple of years, I've noticed an interesting dichotomy. The fiber content shows that merino comprises only 20-40% of it, whereas polyester comprises 60-80%. Yet the names of the blends inevitably feature the words "merino" and "wool," with no mention of the dominant synthetic content. To me this suggests that the manufacturers are eager to promote their use of wool given its current popularity, but in fact do not believe it is possible for wool to be a performance fabric - hence the idea that wool needs to be improved upon (by adding polyester) in order to be used in cycling clothing. All of this has made me highly skeptical about the wool/poly blends. But over the past few months I've had the opportunity to wear several garments made of these fabrics, and gave them an open-minded try. What follows are my impressions. 

Having joined a local cycling club last December, I received their club jersey (right), which happens to be made by Rapha out of the aforementioned SportWool. A couple of months later, I received some items for review from Shutt Velo Rapide, including the Women's Training jersey (left), made of MerinoPerform. Both jerseys are 40% wool, 60% polyester. The texture and weight of the fabrics appear to be identical. 

On the outside, the wool blend fabric is smooth and has a slight sheen to it. On the inside it is matte, soft and slightly textured. To the touch, neither the outside nor the inside feels like true merino, but the inside comes closer.

I have worn both jerseys over a (thin, 100% wool) base layer as well as directly next to my skin. I am sensitive to polyester was was curious whether this blend would engage that sensitivity. 

In cooler weather, over a base layer, both jerseys feel pretty good. In fact, as mid/outer layers, I have to admit they regulate temperature better for me than the pure wool equivalents I own. I do not experience any sensitivity wearing either of these jerseys over a wool base layer.

However, worn directly next to skin I found the jerseys inferior to the pure wool alternatives. In warm weather the wool/poly blends do not breathe as well for me, and I feel clammy wearing them. I also find them less versatile for temperature regulation when worn on their own. On one ride I found myself too hot in the jersey at 85°F and too cold at the end of the ride at 65°F. I know that my long sleeve 100% wool jerseys are more versatile over the same temperature range.

Rapha, Shutt Velo Rapide and Road Holland each offer lighter weight versions of their wool blend jerseys in an airy eyelet fabric. I've tried the one by Shutt Velo Rapide (above) and it did keep me cool in hot weather. The downside was that as soon as the temperature dropped a bit, I felt chilly. In my experience, pure wool is just more versatile in this respect.

As far as polyester sensitivity, I experienced it with the Rapha jersey when worn directly next to skin, but not with the Shutt Velo Rapide jerseys. I think the reason is simply that the former fits me tighter, so it comes into closer contact with my skin. Either way, after wearing the Rapha jersey in 80°F weather without a base layer underneath, I promptly got a rash under my arms. To be safe, I won't be wearing either of the wool blend jerseys without a base layer again.

Finally, some are probably wondering about the BO factor. Wool is well known for its odor-resistant properties, whereas polyester is known for quite the opposite. I found these jerseys to be somewhere in the middle in that respect, but closer to polyester.

In summary, I have learned that for me the wool/polyester blends function extremely well as outer and mid layers in cool to freezing temperatures. However, they do not function well for me when worn directly next to skin in warmer temperatures - both failing to provide the same temperature regulation as pure wool and activating my polyester sensitivity when coming into close contact with my body. 

I am curious about others' experiences with wool/polyester blend fabrics from these and any other manufacturers. How do you find them for cycling compared to 100% wool or 100% synthetics? 

Winded

I remember in elementary school art class, our first assignment was to "draw the wind." The class was divided in their interpretation: Half drew an old man with long gray hair floating up in the sky and blowing gray swirly clouds; the other half drew trees swaying. I was one of the few who drew something weird - I think it was little animals running for cover amidst fallen flowers. The teacher wasn't pleased at all with my creativity and told me to look at the other children's pictures. But I never did get the hang of it. 

Today I came close to crashing on my bike, and it was all the wind's fault. Well no, it was my fault. But it happened because it was windy. I was riding my roadbike alone and practicing leaning on turns, when suddenly a strong gust of wind blew in the direction of my lean. It had not occurred to me that such a thing could happen, but of course there is no reason it can't. It was an alarming sensation, as if someone was maliciously shoving me, trying to topple me on a turn. I was already leaning, and the gust of wind made the lean feel out of control. 

Naturally, I panicked and tried to straighten the bike - in the middle of the turn, while simultaneously braking. As a result the bike became unstable, and then all I could think to do was attempt to bring it to an abrupt stop without letting it fall. I hit the brakes and came off the saddle at an awkward angle, holding on to the handlebars tightly and managing to keep the bike upright. Overall it was fine, except as my left foot landed on the ground, my right foot remained on the pedal and I twisted my ankle slightly. It's not swollen, but it hurts a little. Damn.

Of all the ways I could injure myself on a bike, it figures that it would be something ridiculous like this. Why did I have to panic and get all squirrely? Until today I haven't had that sort reaction in a long time. I guess what scared me is that the situation was entirely new. I know at this point how to right a bike if the front wheel hits a pothole, if another cyclist hits me with their elbow as they pass, or if I need to swerve around an obstacle. But the wind pushing me into a lean was unexpected and I didn't know what to do. In retrospect I should have just gone with it - I don't think the wind was strong enough to actually push me all the way to the ground. But of course that's easy to say now. Well, I hope my ankle is okay and I can ride tomorrow. I am trying to figure out what lesson there is to be learned from this, but more than anything I am just super annoyed at myself. And the wind. 

Brevet Season

Over the weekend, local bike shop and cycling club Ride Studio Cafe hosted a group ride followed by a Brevet Season Kick-Off Party that lasted well into the night. Organised by the RSC and cycling legends The Blayleys, this event included food, drink, a bike show, and an information session about various aspects of randonneuring.

This event struck me as significant on a number of levels. It was a coming together of the worlds of road racing, randonneuring and casual cycling, which rarely happens in other communities. It also showed just how much local interest there is in randonneuring. The room was absolutely packed and by the time things got started it was almost impossible to move. No one expected such a turnout.

Though many beautiful and unusual bicycles were brought in for the bike show and contest, it was impossible to photograph them due to their sheer proximity to one another. Frames bearing the marks of Weigle, Vanilla, ANT, Rawland, Rivendell, Sketchy, Gunnar and Seven were a common sight, as were refurbished vintage mystery frames. The glitter of hammered fenders set the room aglow. Saddlebags swayed to the soft French music that played in the background. Map sleeves glistened. Leather saddles of at least 4 different makes flaunted their rivets and cut-outs. Light and heavy, racy and sedate, with integrated lighting and without, rando bikes filled the entire room and spilled outside. Waist-deep in a sea of lovely bikes, yet unable to photograph them... oh how I suffered! The winners of the bike contest were a stunningly crafted JP Weigle, a refurbished vintage Raleigh, and a customised Seven rando bike (this one).

Last year it took me a while to understand what randonneuring really was, and I suspect many readers might like to have it explained. French in origin, randonneuring is defined as a "noncompetitive, timed, endurance cycling sport." It involves riding in organised long distance events, with the goal to finish within a specific time frame. The rides are unsupported (no van with supplies and mechanical help to follow riders around) and take place regardless of weather conditions. Control points along the way ensure participants cover the entire route.

Official randonneuring events (aka randonnées) are sanctioned internationally by the Audax Club Parisien and in the US by Randonneurs USA. Our local organisation here in Boston is the New England Randonneurs (NER).

The shortest type of randonnée (petite randonnée?) is called the Populaire, and it is 100km - a metric century. But the prototypical randonnées are the brevets - rides 200km or longer. Local organisations will usually host a brevet series starting in spring, consisting of 200km, 300km, 400km and 600km rides spread out through the season. Hence, the Brevet Season.

Other types of randonnées include the Flèche (a 24 hour team event, described very nicely here), and the so-called grande randonnées, the most famous of which is the 1200km Paris-Brest-Paris (for some time there was a local grande randonnée Boston-Montreal-Boston, but sadly it appears to have been discontinued). The schedule for all the local randonnées this season is posted here. 

A number of well known local randonneurs attended the Brevet Kick-Off Party, and it was a pleasure to see them in person. 

It was particularly excited to spot Emily O'Brien - a woman known for riding long distance on fixed gear, eating pickles, and making custom bicycle bags named after pickles.

I also finally met a few people whom I'd previously only corresponded with - including Cris C., who arrived on his well-loved ANT.

Presentations were given by Melinda Lyon of the New England Randonneurs, Pamela Blalock, and Matt Roy of MM Racing. Matt was at a disadvantage in that he went on last and it was already quite late. But I am so glad I stayed for his presentation, because he is an extremely engaging and charismatic speaker. At 10pm, Matt's talk made me want to immediately get up and ride a few hundred miles - whilst meticulously following his instructions of course.

While I find the idea of randonneuring exciting and romantic, I doubt that I can actually do it. The routes are hilly and challenging, and the people who do these things are extremely strong riders, no matter how much they might downplay it in conversation. Randonneurs tend to make a point of being inclusive and assuring others that "anyone can do it," and they honestly believe it. They also have a habit of describing rides in a way that makes it seem all about the scenery and camaraderie, conveniently leaving out the part about it being difficult! But in fact it is very difficult, and I am not a sufficiently strong cyclist at this stage. It is also a must that participants be able to fix their own mechanical problems, since there is no support. While I have the know-how, I cannot physically work on my bike and that presents a problem. Finally - and I hate to say this, but it's true - I am simply not committed enough. Though I ride a lot, I do it on my own time instead of planning my life around rides that take place on specific dates. When push comes to shove, personal things have priority and in the past it has been very difficult for me to commit to organised cycling events. For serious randonneurs, their lives basically revolve around the brevet season, as a great deal of commitment is required to both take part in and train for the events.

Some day I would like to take part in a brevet (or a flèche - those sound like so much fun!), and I certainly do not mean to discourage others from doing it. It's just that there has been such a tendency to romanticise randonneuring and to contrast it with racing, that the popular image of the activity does not, in my opinion, adequately reflect how challenging and demanding it actually is. It's good to go into something with realistic expectations. 

As you can see, the Brevet Season Kick-Off Event has given me a lot to think about. More than anything, I am still overwhelmed by how significant it felt to be there. We could practically feel a new era dawning as more and more people filled the room (several of us mentioned that independently so I know it wasn't just my overactive imagination!). While it doesn't mean that the local population will now rush en masse to join the New England Randonneurs (though it's a great idea to support them), I do think it's indicative of a growing interest in a particular type of cycling: long rides on bikes that are fast yet practical, and without an overt competitive element. It's the kind of cycling I like best so far, and I appreciate that it is so well supported locally. More low-light pictures of the event here!

2 Raincoats: Nau Succinct Trench and Lululemon Ride On Rain Jacket

It's been raining here all week, so the timing seems right to review some raincoats. For three years now I've been looking for a lightweight, waterproof, breathable raincoat that works well on a city bike, but found nothing. Now I've suddenly come across two. On the left is the Succinct Trench by Nau, purchased by me a few months ago via a discount website. On the right is the Ride On Rain Jacket by Lululemon, sent to me for review by the manufacturer. Both raincoats fit my requirements well.

The Lululemon "Ride On" Rain Jacket is a rather avant-garde looking raincoat that hits a few inches above the knees in the front and an inch or so below the back of the knees in the rear. It has the same Edwardian theme as the blazer reviewed earlier, but here it is consistent and harmonious throughout the garment. The jacket is very thin and feels suitable for temperatures in the mid 40°s - mid 70°s Fahrenheit.

The jacket is waterproof and breathable, lined with a soft, thin fabric throughout. Lululemon uses cryptic proprietary names to describe their fabrics, and the stuff this jacket is made of is called "atmosphere." It is crinkly and easy to scrunch up and stuff into a pannier when not in use. It weighs very little.  An inner drawcord at the waist makes the fit of this jacket adjustable. Overall the fit is pretty loose, but tightening the drawcord gives it a tailored, flattering look. Another drawcord controls the hem.

When the hem is let out, it is pretty flowy. Tightening the drawcord offers better protection from the rain.

The sleeves are extra long, featuring cuffs with reflective detailing. 

There is an inner and an outer zipper, the purpose of which I do not entirely understand. Lululemon calls this a "double zipper." However, neither of them are two-way, and the jacket cannot be unzipped from the bottom. 

The front pockets have smallish zippered openings outlined with reflective ribbon They are very roomy inside and are lined with a soft, pleasant fabric. There is also an inner pocket.

The collar zips up high and can be used in leu of a scarf. The hood is large enough to fit over a bicycle helmet, of so desired. It is is adjustable via a drawstring, but is not detachable.

The Lululemon "Ride On" Rain Jacket works well for cycling because it is lightweight, waterproof, breathable, stretchy, makes minimal rustling noise, has longer than standard sleeves, and provides good rain coverage via a combination of its length and drawcord hem. At the same time it is sufficiently elegant to wear as part of an everyday, non-technical wardrobe. As far as criticisms: I found the fit of the hood to be less than optimal, with a slight tendency to obscure my peripheral vision unless I move it out of the way or push it back a bit. Hi-viz lovers might be disappointed by the subtlety of the reflective details, but this jacket is also available in orange (and black). The $298 price tag may or may not be a deal breaker, depending on what you are used to. And of course the flowing, Edwardian style is not everyone's cup of tea. Would I have bought this jacket for myself? Not at full retail price, but yes if it went on sale and if I did not already own the Nau trench (see below). After this review I will be giving it away locally. You can read another review of this jacket by Dottie on Let's Go Ride a Bike.

The Nau Succinct Trench resembles a classic Barbour-style English field coat. It hits mid-thigh and is gently tailored at the waist. Made of an ultra-thin shell material, it is waterproof, breathable and lightweight, suitable for temperatures in the mid 40°s - mid 70°s Fahrenheit. The fabric is described as "recycled polyester."

The jacket shown here is the 2011 model and the colour of the current model is a little different: The latter has black buttons instead of silver and a very subtle black-on-black plaid pattern. In all other ways they are the same (I asked the manufacturer).

The Nau trench is simple, compact and decidedly utilitarian in design. Those who do not like to fuss with drawcords and adjust things back and forth, will enjoy its intuitive versatility. 

The two-way zipper and rear vent make it easy to adjust the width of the hem for pedaling, walking, and other activities . 

The roomy, covered pockets feature both zip and snap closure, allowing both easy access of weather-proofing.

The stand-up collar can be buttoned up to protect the neck from rain and wind, or let out.

The waist is adjustable. 

Only the upper 3rd of the trench is lined, reducing weight and bulk.

The detachable, visored hood features both a zipper, snap closure and a hidden draw-cord, allowing for a number of micro-adjustments for optimal fit.

The Nau Succinct Trench works well for cycling because it is lightweight, waterproof, breathable, easy to move in, makes minimal rustling noise, has longer than standard sleeves, and provides coverage of the derriere and upper thighs. A classic design, it is sufficiently elegant to wear as part of an everyday, non-technical wardrobe and is unlikely to go out of style over the next few years. The detachable hood offers extra versatility, and does not obscure peripheral vision. As far as criticisms: Making the trench slightly longer would provide better rain coverage for cyclists. Adding a few reflective elements will be attractive to those who require that their rain jacket be hi-viz. Personally I would love to see this jacket in a classic colour other than black - for instance olive green. The $275 price tag may or may not be a deal breaker, depending on what you are used to. I bought mine for 40% off via a discount retailer at the end of last season, and those who find the retail price too high can always wait, stalk, and do the same.

I find both the Nau Succinct Trench and the Lululemon Ride on Rain Jacket to be flattering, practical, and cycling-appropariate, assuming that you ride an upright bike and are looking for a raincoat that is suitable as everyday clothing. The Lululemon jacket is probably the more stylish of the two considering current trends, but it is also the more likely to look dated a couple of years down the road. For me, that skews things in favour of the Nau trench, but others' preferences may differ. Both raincoats are good examples of cycling-appropriate apparel. By comparison, my older raincoat is considerably bulkier and more constricting on the bike. I am glad to have finally found a replacement.