It's Electric! A Case of Fear and Loathing?

Every once in a while I am asked why I do not write about electric bikes, and the answer is simple: because they do not interest me. Maybe in 40 years they will, but at the moment I do not find myself longing for a sweet e-assist ride. Still, I have nothing against electric bikes and their usefulness is readily apparent to me: cargo bikes and pedicabs, upright bikes in truly hilly areas, and bikes with assistance for the elderly and others who have a hard time pedaling on their own power. What's not to like?

Yesterday I was cycling across town and a middle-aged man on an e-bike was pedaling in the bike lane just ahead of me. He was going pretty slowly, so I passed him, not giving it a second thought. Then behind me I heard another cyclist passing him, and then I heard that cyclist shout: "Get the f- out of the bike lane you retard!" There was more, and the abuse was directed toward him riding an e-bike - which the regular cyclist did not feel belonged in the bike lane. That was not the first time I'd heard this sentiment. From Interbike last year, I know that the e-bike industry is trying hard to push e-assist onto the cycling market, and I also know that there is resistance among those who see e-bikes as a threat to "real cycling." But I figured meanies will be meanies and soon forgot about the shouting incident. 

Then this morning, I saw a link to this article in the Gothamist, debating whether a $1000 fine for riding an e-bike was overkill (the previous amount was $500). I had not even known that e-bikes were illegal in NYC, but apparently they are. It is illegal to ride them and it is illegal for bike shops to sell them. And now the city is considering a serious crack-down, because the food delivery guys on their "souped up" bikes are out of control, terrorising the peaceful citizens by going as fast as 30mph. 

What bothers me about the NYC situation is not specific to e-bikes. It's that instead of the government regulating public behaviour with strictly enforced laws, perfectly useful objects are criminalised. 30mph is a speed that any decent roadie can hit on their racing bike without the help of e-assist. Yet racing bikes are not outlawed in NYC as far as I know. If speed-demon delivery boys are causing problems, set and enforce a speed limit. But the blanket targeting of e-bikes is not logical. When posting a link to the Gothamist article, a bicycle blogger wrote: "NYC is flat and small enough that no one needs an e-bike here. Ever." What she means of course, is that she does not feel the need for an e-bike in NYC. Neither do I in Boston. But that line of thinking can just as well be applied to us by others. "Nobody needs to be riding a bike on the road!" is something I've heard too many times. The fear and loathing of e-bikes is just as irrational. 

If we're going to outlaw stuff, I personally would like to see a law for motor vehicles to be stripped of doors, since doorings are responsible for countless cyclist injuries and deaths in cities. Make car doors illegal and problem solved. Maybe NYC should get on that.

Selle AnAtomica Titanico, New Version

Last year I posted a review of the Selle AnAtomica Titanico saddle, just as the manufacturer was revamping their product. They have since sent me the new version of this saddle to try, and I am ready to post an update. I got the saddle in black, with copper rivets. I opted for the slotted version, to make it an equal comparison to the previous saddle I owned. 

I installed the new saddle on my roadbike and used it for about 450 miles over the winter. The longest single ride I've gone on over that time has been 55 miles. 

For detailed information about the manufacturer, please see my original review. But to briefly recap, Selle AnAtomica is an American producer of leather saddles, known for their classic look, their "anatomic" cut-outs, their "watershed" (waterproof) leather, and the generous adjustable range of their rails. The saddles are available in a number of colours and there are separate models for heavier and lighter riders. There is also a non-cutout version available, though the cutout is said to be a crucial feature - allowing the two sides of the saddle to move independently, relieving pressure on soft tissue.

All of these features have remained the same in the newer Selle AnAtomica models, and visually they look identical to the older ones. But there are two key differences. First, the rails are now made of cromoly steel (I take it they were made of hi-ten previously), which makes the saddles lighter.  Second, the standard Titanico model is now made of the heavier duty leather that was previously used on the Clydesdale model. This was no doubt in response to complaints of the saddles sagging prematurely.

The previous SA saddle I owned did sag over the first 200 miles, but after we tightened the tension it did not seem to be sagging again - or possibly it was, but very slowly. The newer version has shown very little, if any, sagging in the 450 miles I've ridden on it so far and has not required tension adjustment.

In my review of the older model, I described the Selle Anatomica saddle as being the most comfortable saddle I've ridden, except when it wasn't. Most of the time the slotted design worked really well, with a wonderful hammocking effect. But once in a while, seemingly spontaneously, one of the sides of the cutout slot would decide to pinch my crotch and that did not feel good at all. The SA representative thought that the stiffer leather of the new model would resolve the issue, but the same thing happened this time around. Just as with the previous saddle, there was no break-in period and it felt perfect from the start, and I mean purrrrfect - no pressure on the sitbones, no pain, just pure comfort... until suddenly, in the midst of a 40 mile ride, the right side of the slot began to dig into my female tidbits in a most unwelcome manner. I'd try to adjust my position on the saddle this way and that, but to no avail. It would pinch pretty badly, until, just as suddenly as it started, the pinching would stop and the saddle would feel perfect again. To be fair, this has happened less frequently with the new saddle than with the older model, but it still happened.

I think Selle AnAtomica is onto something with their unique design, because I cannot stress how comfortable the saddles are when the mysterious slot-pinch is not happening. The waterproof feature is also quite handy - especially for someone like me who always forgets or loses saddle covers. All of that is very cool, and I am glad that they appear to have resolved the sagging issue with the new models. Maybe the slot cutout can be optimised or customised somehow, I don't know. As it stands, I cannot trust the saddle on super-long rides in case the cut-out starts pinching again. But it is also the only saddle I can trust to be comfortable out of the box, with no break-in period. Whether the version without the cut-out resolves the pinching problem without detracting from the saddle's overall comfort would require further experimentation. 

Revisiting the KHS Green

If anybody out there has been reading this blog from the beginning, you know my fondness for the KHS Manhattan Green. A simple, inexpensive steel 3-speed, the KHS Green is the bike that got me back into cycling after a 12 year hiatus. For months I had been visiting local bike shops, but in 2008/2009 there was not much choice out there. The KHS Green was the first bike that I felt comfortable riding. I rented it from Cambridge Bicycle, rode around Boston, and experienced the born-again moment that led to this blog. Ultimately I did not buy this particular bike, because I wanted something with more features and fell in love with lugs. But the happy memories of its simple ridability remained with me, and it is the bike I suggest to anyone who tells me they have a tiny budget. At the moment the KHS Green retails at $365. For that price you get:

a welded steel loop frame, made in China, size 14" or 17" in subdued black or silver colour schemes,

set up with 700C wheels, city tires, fenders,

upright handlebars, sprung vinyl saddle,

partial chaincase,

3-speed coaster brake hub,

front v-brake, ergo grips, bell,

large rear rack, platform pedals, kickstand,

and a "cafe" lock.

It is my understanding that Cambridge Bicycle contributed to the design of the KHS Green, and that the New England based distributor was instrumental in these bicycles coming to exist as well. Maybe that is why there are so many of them in the Boston area (though this begs the question why it has "Manhattan" in the name...). 

KHS Green bikes are so ubiquitous in my neighborhood in fact, that I have made a game of snapping pictures of them. They are usually black, and are left parked overnight on the streets with abandon. Here is one locked up next to my Gazelle. And here's another. And another. A friend of mine has one. A neighbor has one. I've even seen two seemingly unrelated ones locked up to the same rack at the grocery store. The ones from a few years back are a bit rusty, sure. But they appear to be fully functional and well-used. 

It's been nearly 3 years since I rode a KHS Green, so I thought it would be useful to refresh my memory and see what I think of the bike now. After all, I've gained considerably more cycling experience and have tried many different bicycles in all price ranges.

I rode my own bike to Cambridge Bicycles, left it with them, and then took the Green around town on some of my typical urban routes. Clipping my pannier to the rear rack was easy, and I carried all my stuff just like when riding my own bike.

The bike I rode was quite small, because they only had the 14" size in stock, but it was ridable with the saddle all the way up. There was no toe overlap for me on the 14" frame - but it was very close and whether you experience it may depend on your shoe size and how you hold your foot on the pedal. My positioning on the bike was bolt-upright, with a short reach from handlebars to saddle - though of course on a larger frame it would be somewhat different. The seat tube angle felt fairly steep, with the sensation of the pedals being directly below the saddle. I started riding in the bike lane along the very busy Massachusetts Avenue in Cambridge, rode home to Somerville, circled around and returned via the MIT campus where I snapped these pictures. All in all it was about a 4 mile ride on busy roads and side streets.

The bike felt fairly easy to ride, with the 3-speed hub being more than sufficient for the urban environment. It does not have the luxurious ride quality of a Dutch bike, but it is not terrible over bumps either. It is not a fast bike, but fast enough for local commutes and errands. The brakes and gears worked without problems. Nothing rattled or came loose during my test ride. The bike rides as it looks: simply and with no frills.

The KHS Green is missing lights, but otherwise it is fully equipped for transportation cycling. While I cannot personally comment on its durability, the dozens of exemplars I have seen parked around Boston don't look too shabby and I have not heard any feedback about component failure tendencies. Having test ridden the bike 3 years after I last tried it, my impression has not changed much. It is not a gorgeous or an especially fast bike, but it is perfectly decent and functional. With a price tag in the mid-$300s, it is a great deal if you are in the market for a step-through city bike on a tiny budget. Many thanks to Cambridge Bicycle for the test ride! 

GIANT Attraction, Crank-Set Replacement

Hello and Welcome.
Some of you may remember the Giant Attraction restoration I finished back in August of 2011. As it turned-out the original crank that I planned to re-use was bent. At the time the only suitable replacement crank I had on-hand was this generic crank. A crank I suspect was off of Department Store mountain bike. It seemed to work OK, but it just looks kind of trashy. So much so that I pulled it off the market and used it for my part-time rider.

Above: The Giant as it still looks today. (pic from late summer 2011) Every time I look at this bike the same thought goes through my mind "you really need to replace that God-Awful looking crank-set". So I have decided this would be a good time to make the change. It is still really cold in the shop this time of year. So hopefully I will be able to do some of this work in the house.

Above: The crank is in pretty fair condition. But it definitely could use a good cleaning. So I broke it down so I could get all the hard to reach areas good and clean. Because of the fumes I had to do this part of the job in the shop/garage.

Above: As you can see the chain-ring teeth are coated with a hardened lubricant and sand mixture. I like to use Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish to remove this. It really breaks this stuff down nicely and also leaves a nice finish as well.

Above: Here is the "Computer Designed" BioPace crank-set all cleaned-up and ready for re-assembly. If you look closely you will notice the BioPace chain-rings are not perfectly round. This is for a more natural rotation (that's the "Bio" part) that will maximize your power out-put to the crank / drive-train (that's the "Pace" part). And you know it works because it was "Computer Designed" (: Hey this was "cutting edge stuff" back in the day! Personally I have never noticed a positive or negative effect using this type chain-ring. So basically I have no problem with it.

Above: Since I have ridden this bike less than 50 miles since rebuilding the bottom-bracket approximately 6 months ago, I will not be doing that this time around. That would be "over kill" even for me.

Above: Here I have everything laid out for reassembly. Because this is a BioPace chain-ring set, it is important the it be assembled correctly. What I mean is, being the chain-rings are oval in shape it is important that the rings are in the correct position as they relate to the position of the crank arm. I have marked the peg location on the large chain-ring. The crank-arm must be directly over the pin when I start re-assembly.

Above: First I get the middle chain-ring ready. I have it face-up with the crank bolts (C) "receiver end" in place with the spacer/washers (W) in position.

Above: Here the crank-arm is in the correct position on the large chain-ring with the peg (P) hidden under the crank arm. I have marked the position of the label (Arrow) on the large ring that shows the size or tooth count. (in this case 48) This is important because for the middle ring to be in the correct position the label must a be visible just below the label on the large ring. As all three chain-rings are oval in shape they must all be in the same proper position as it relates to the crank arm to function properly.

Above: Here I have placed the large chain-ring over the middle ring with the chain-ring bolts (CRB) inserted in the corresponding holes on the large ring. I have marked the labels on the pic to show how both rings are in the same position. Now it gets a little tricky. As I
insert the male end of the bolts for tightening I have to try to keep the whole thing together. I will loose a few spacers and crank-bolts in the process. But it is ok because I can replace them as I go. The main thing is that the rings are in the proper position.

Above: Here is one where I have lost the receiver end of the bolt and the washer/spacer. No big deal I just slide the washer back into place, I use an Allen wrench or small screwdriver
to move it into position. When the spacer/washer is in place, I just insert the receiver bolt in through the bottom. And hold it in place while I start threading the chain-ring bolt in place from the top.

Above: Here I have inserted the receiver bolt in through the bottom of the middle chain-ring. Also through the spacer/washer and the large ring. Now I am ready to thread in the chain-ring bolt from the top. I will only put these in snug not too tight. Too tight and it might be tough to replace any other washer/spacers that fall out.

Above: Once I have snugged all the chain-ring bolts in place I am ready to flip the crank over and install the smallest chain-ring. Again I need to make sure I have the small chain-ring in the proper position. The label should face outwards and line -up with the labels on the two larger chain-rings. Notice I have marked the order in which I snug then tighten the chain-ring bolts. This method makes sure everything goes on straight and does not warp or bend. This ring is simple to install, it has no spacers or washers and the crank arm has threaded holes for the chain-ring bolts to screw into.

Above: Here you can see that all three chain-rings are in the proper position. When I tighten up the medium and large rings I use the same method I used on the small chain-ring. Just don`t work in a circle when tightening the bolts. Tighten one, then tighten the one directly across (or as directly across as possible) again this makes sure everything is straight and prevents warping. I like to use a very small pocket ratchet for bicycle work, this helps prevent over tightening.

Above: When doing the final tightening on the chain-ring bolts for the two large rings sometimes it was necessary to hold the receiver end in place with a screwdriver. A short wide slotted driver works best. Just pretend my other hand is on the ratchet, my volunteer photographer was out shopping. You could probably do this step with the crank-set standing in a vise. If you do, make sure you use two small pieces of wood to protect the crank-arm from being scratched by the vise. And only tighten it enough to hold it in place.

Above: Here is the triple chain-ring all cleaned-up and ready to be installed on the GIANT Attraction.

Above: Here I am back on the first floor (my wife does not like me calling it the basement)
using my "one cent" dust-cap removal adapter on the Giant Attraction. It was cold and damp today, so this is a real treat working in the house.

Above: First order of business is to remove the pedal. For this I am using a "Gear Wrench" 15mm open-end / box wrench. The Gear Wrench`s have a typical open-end wrench on one end and a ratcheting box wrench on the other. I have the straight ones with "no lever". Which means when I want to change rotation direction I have to pop the wrench off and flip it over. I really like this design, less moving parts / less chance of failure.

Above: Here I am using a 14mm 6 point socket to remove the crank arm retainer nut.(rightey tightey / lefty loosey) Actually I should remove the chain first. To take the chain off the chain-ring. First shift to the smallest (rear) sprocket. (stop the rear wheel first) Now with my left hand I grab the rear derailleur by the bottom of the jockey wheel frame and pull it forward. This takes the tension off the chain so I can now slip the chain off the chain-ring with my right hand and let it rest on the bracket housing.

Above: I talk about this a lot. Using the right socket for the nut or bolt head. It is a 14mm socket. But it is also a six point socket to match the six point nut. This greatly reduces your chance of rounding off the nut. Look closely and you can see this socket is ready to be replaced. A couple of the points (inside the socket) have round-off badly.

Above: Here I have threaded the removal tool into the crank. I always start threading this in by hand to ensure it is not cross threaded. You may need a wrench to screw it all the way in. Do not over tighten this, when you feel it is all the way in Stop. You should feel it bottom out when it is in far enough. It is normal to have some threads exposed when it is threaded in all the way.(see pic)

Above: Now I turn the tool clock wise using the blue handle. This handle is basically welded to the end of a threaded post. As I turn it clock-wise the post threads inward through the hollow threaded nut part of the wrench. (the part I screwed into the crank) As it does it will contact the threaded end of spline. As I continue to turn the wrench it forces the crank off the tapered end of the bracket/spline. You will need to hold the crank arm so the crank does not spin when you are turning the wrench. This is why I like the Sun-Lite wrench better. On the Sun-Lite wrench the handle is not welded into place. I can re-set it to the best position to hold both the wrench and the crank arm at the same time. Now most of the time this does not really matter. But when you get a "stuck crank" that has rusted onto the tapered bracket/spline it matters a lot. I don`t want to get any hate mail from Park Tool lovers. Hey! PARK makes lots of great tools and stands etc. But in this case, I think the Sun-Lite wrench is a much better design.

Above: Once the post part of the removal tool has worked it's magic, the crank will slide right off the bracket/spline easily. Now you will need a wrench to remove the tool from the crank. This is why I said "do not over tighten it" when you thread it into the crank.

Above: Before installing the new crank I wipe off the tapered spline and smear just a very light coat of grease on it.

Above: Here I have slid the new crank into place and am threading the retainer nut onto place on the threaded end of the tapered bracket/spline. The crank will not slide on all the way. (if it does it`s too big)

Above: Here I am tightening the retainer nut which pulls the crank tightly onto the tapered spline. I have changed ratchets to a smaller one that does not require an adapter. I like to keep the set-up as short as possible it helps me keep the socket tightly in place while tightening the nut. And the smaller ratchet prevents me from applying too much torque. If you want, a little blue thread-lock on the threads is always a good idea too.

Above: Here I am removing the pedal from the opposite (left) side. I want to run this through the gears and the pedal is hitting the stand. I will turn the bike around on the stand before I replace the left side crank arm.

Above: A couple of quick adjustments to the derailleur and it is good to go! I am lucky here. The derailleur is big enough to accommodate the up and down motion of the chain is it passes through the derailleur. This vertical motion of the chain is caused by the oval shape of the chain-rings.

Above: Now I pop on the dust cap, and I think it is looking really good! Time to turn the bike around on stand and change the left crank-arm and re-install the pedal.

Above: So there you have it. I think this crank set is a huge improvement over the generic p.o.s. department store crank I had on it before. This is a very a comfortable bike for me to ride. I think I am going to swap the saddle for the one on the Specialized FS. It has a new WTB "Speed V Comp" saddle. One of my all time favorites. It is supposed to warm-up again real soon. I can`t wait to try this out with the new crank-set and the WTB saddle as well.

Above: I snapped a few shots with the Ze'Fal light flashing. Not bad of a light set under 20.00 US. Well fellow bicycle lovers that about does it for now. I know I got into way to much unnecessary detail for some of you more experienced mechanics. But I have to assume some of the people who view this will be doing this for the first time. So thanks for your patience. I`m running late for "coffee break" so See You Soon. Ride Safe and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE!!
Cheers,Hugh